Copenhagen Fashion Week Minus Me.

I don’ think there will be much rest for the fashionably wicked this month.  Berlin Fashion Week kicked things off late January 2012, but Copenhagen is the city that officially started my fashion month off.  Last year I was up front and center to some of the great shows in the city that turned me into a true cyclist, wedges and all.  Unfortunately, last week I couldn’t make it to CPH to see R/H’s AW/12 Kiss and Say Goodbye Show or have been lucky enough to have Jean//phillip‘s voluminous capes graze my knees in the front row, (wishful thinking).  I certainly missed out on biking around the city trying to get to all the shows throughout the day and  the after parties.  Or did I?

It seems everything happens for a reason.  Traveling all the way to the other side of the world, for a week during some snow storms and very cold weather, wasn’t going to work for me,  especially when the best way to get around in Copenhagen is on one’s bicycle. Then I would fly back to NYC and  get into the swing of things for New York Fashion Week.  Days after NYFW concludes, the real leg work begins when at least 3 main fashion trade-shows, Coterie, Capsule and D&A, set up shop in various parts of the city demanding our attention for 3 days only.  So happy I have my wedge sneakers ready to go.

It was for the best that, mentally and financially, I stayed in this fashionable city that I call home.  I did miss hanging out with my new friends from Copenhagen and Berlin, but they were always a Facebook email and comment away.

Let me introduce you guys to Kemara Pol aka” flavor enhancer”.  He is a talented photographer and writer for Andy Art Magazine, who lives in Berlin and covers his hometown and Copenhagen’s fashion week.  He is one of my contacts on the other side of the world and I couldn’t wait to read what he had to say about those 4 days I missed out on.  Now one thing I have to say about the fashion peeps I surround myself with, we are always the odd ones out, and we say it like we see it, no sugar coating, or any attempts  to impress the masses.  Either you love or hate what we’re about.

With all of that said, this is the first of several articles, from “Flavour enhancer” I will be sharing with you’ll. Thanks Kemara.

“Actually, it’s almost a tradition, that Henrik Vibskov rounds out the Copenhagen Fashion Week with the last show in the schedule. This time, however, the Danish creative decided to show on the first day of Fashion Week, and took so many designers that followed the wind from the sails.

Rumor was, the reason for the restructuring was because the Danish newspaper journalists refused for any reason whatsoever, to take the show in the weekend edition and the following Monday (ie today, 02/06/2012) appeared Henrik Vibskov and the journalists will probably, but too late in today’s newspapers to report even higher. Not so easy to consider all aspects of a fashion show. Nevertheless, to have this world-renowned designer spectacular fashion show in a class to the media under-representation probably worry more.

More than fashion

“Shrink Wrap Spectacular” – that is the name of Hendrik Vibskov’s new work of art. Anyone who follows the designer is already familiar  and has a better understanding as to what he’s talking about.  “when I say that the fashion showis only a part of every detail thought out staging. There are other shows where it is sometimes not absolutely necessary to be physically present and can be well examined via live stream or even in retrospect on the computer images.” Henrik Vibskov’s shows include but certainly not to, because not for nothing was the disused Carlsberg Brewery (in idle during the show, beer was consumed), filled to bursting.  Hendrik Vibskov’s shows while stuck again and again and yet full of surprises, we know what you get: a meticulously planned, self-consistent show that will not soon forget.

The collection

Inspired by music, and vibrating bass Trommen (tore even the most weary audience from the vegetative state), delivered a passionate artist and part-time drummer of the band a distinctly eccentric Trentemøller and bold collection from. New silhouettes with strong prints and unusual details such as caps, reminiscent of a conglomerate of old bathing cap and fossil shell awarded the collection an almost bizarre items of note. Seasoned with an authentic sense of humor can be said about the strange fringes socks away look that sees the designer as a hot contender except for the coming winter. But apart from these two accessories that you simply accept as a given because it must Henrik Vibskov and will be charged due to its art, its enchanting colorful and avant-garde collection, the entire fashion world.”

P.S . I translated this article using Google Translate, I couldn’t wait to share the article and pics! The original in German is Here        

 


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See more videos and images on blog.henrikvibskovboutique.com

 

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Talk Tuesday: Designer Linda Larsson. Some Call Her Elveel.

My trip to Copenhagen months ago was one that exposed me to a different fashionable city, and showed me how they express their love to the designers of the future.  While attending fashion week, I was lucky enough to attend The Designers’ Nest Show and Award Ceremony.  This was one presentation, not only was an honor to be in attendance, but to get seats front row!  Well my seat was behind Hamish Bowles from Vogue, he didn’t show up and who am I to let a good seat go to waste?  So front and center, with my camera in hand!

 Just to share some facts about the show: The Designers’ Nest Show and Award is a design contest created in order to select the best among hundreds of talented Nordic design students. It offers them the chance to present their collections to press and potential buyers from all around the world.  The cash prize to the winner: DKK 50,000/ $9566 USD.

Not a lot when we convert it to USD, but recognition by the people in attendance, and through word of mouth, will last much longer than the cash prize.

Until you’re worked countless hours on creating unique, striking garments that speak without a word being said, you cannot begin to comprehend the amount of blood, sweat, tears and under-eye situations that one has gone through for this passion we call fashion.  So to see all those walking pieces of art from all the designers chosen to show that day, were winners in my book.

With that said, there were few designers that had that double take, stare down, mouth open,  holding back the urge to battle a model on the runway for what she had on…effect. (and exhale)

I have that eye when it comes to selecting the good stuff. ( yup tooting my own shiny, golden horn)  I knew it the first time I saw R/H The Label, and I knew it when that one sleeved, folded lapel, wool cream coat, from designer Linda Larsson, went down the runway.  If I’m willing to starve myself to wear a particular garment because my size isn’t available, it deserves an award and a place in my closet.  Maybe the judges were thinking the same thing after they reviewed all of the collections, because Linda Larsson walked away with the winning prize that afternoon.

I reached out to Ms. Larsson to find out more about her creative mind and where it is after winning the Designers Nest Award.  Linda’s responses to each of my questions somewhat reflects the way she approaches her designs, from my point of view.  Her creations peeked my interests at first glance, but as I gave each garment a head-to-toe stare down, I noticed the way she made such intricate, detailed designs look so sophisticated and cutting-edge.  Let me put it like this,  if you were to merge Narcisco Rodriquez’s tailoring with Rick Owen’s draping, the result will be Elveel, the name chosen by Linda Larsson for her clothing line.

 

Name: Linda Larsson
Stomping Ground: Göteborg, Sweden
Age:
Old enough to tango, too young for waltz
Most beloved possession: 
My terrestrial globe
Fashion idol:
Iris Apfel
Favorite quote is: “
In the middle of life it happens that death comes and measures man. The visit is forgotten and life continues. But the suit is made, quietly.” – Tomas Tranströmer
Last song listened to was:
Bear Quartet – “Ask Me Don’t Axe Me”
Linda Larsson after accepting The Designers' Nest Award SS/12
Q:When and how did your interest in designing clothes begin?
LL: I grew up at a small place in Sweden, translated into English, is named Wolf Island, a place where you had to create your own surrounding that added a spark to the uneventful everyday life.  During high school I focused on arranging gigs and workshops, and when I finished high school I got the opportunity to travel working as a model and taking part in the fashion world in front of the camera, dressed in various sensational outfits. I wanted to learn the craftsmanship to create these kinds of creations.  So I began studying art and textile.  I realized I was on the right track and continued studying, earning a bachelor’s degree in fashion design.

Q: Do you remember the first design you created?  Where is it now? 
LL: Except from glued-together masquerade outfits?  That would probably be the dress Twisted Tube, a several meters long tube that is twisted and sewn together, able to be worn in several ways. It is so worn out today that it has retired and it is now resting in my wardrobe.
Linda Larsson's First Design The Twisted Tube Dress

Q: Now that you’re the winner of the Designers’ Nest Award, more eyes are on you.  Do you feel pressure now to live up to expectations, compared to before when you just were competing to win the award?
LL: The prize rather gave me confidence and encouraged me to continue developing my designs. I’d like to regard the win as a trigger and a great opportunity to showcase my designing skills with new collections at the Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Q: The name for you clothing line Elveel, what does it mean?
LL: My full name is Linda Viola Larsson and the shortening becomes LVL. When pronouncing the letters it becomes something unrecognizable, which appeals to me.  The name is personally attached to me and the explanation is available for those who are interested, but it hasn’t gotten any obvious associations, which leaves an open interpretation to the beholder.
Q: If you had the opportunity to collaborate with a designer or a brand, who would it be and why?
LL: I am curious to step into the world of Hussein Chalayan and his ways to investigate how shape and structure can be built up and be perceived.  He could simply make brilliant collections, but takes it further and makes statements to put them into a more interesting context.
Q: What are your best and worst experiences since you started designing?
LL: It was a dream come true to show my collection on the runway at the Fashion Weeks in Stockholm, Copenhagen and London.  During all my years studying fashion design, I have searched to find my own aesthetics, to find a way of working and a result that I more than gladly would like to put my name on. I made my final collection and felt proud over the result, and that have found an aesthetic platform which I feel that I can develop further into several directions.
My worse experience is probably a general feeling of doubt being a part of this business. In a world where you can buy copies of the catwalk pieces days after the show for less then 10 dollars, you easily question what sort of scene you’re in and why. Do people still want to buy pieces that are made by hand on a smaller scale and give people the opportunity to choose designers that are not participating in the capitalistic movement? However, the reward is when people comes up to me telling that they appreciate my designs generates the answer ”YES”, and I continue designing with those people in my mind as my muses.
The designer hard at work.
Q: Where can we purchase your designs?
LL: For the moment it is only possible to order through my webpage www.elveel.se
Q:  Complete the sentence: “In 5 years Elveel will be….
LL: A brand that stands for quality clothing with classical tailored design yet with a contemporary feel. Strict yet unconcerned, sharp yet bold”

Images via CPHVision and Elveel


 

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Talk Tuesday: Another Serving Of Jean//phillip Please?

Fashion Designer Jean Phillip

Most women who attend a menswear fashion show, can’t help but adore the male models that worked the runways. Looking at the clothes, critiquing, picking top-sellers for the next season, are all part of the job, but the good-looking, toned, tall men, those are the perks. It’s ok to nod your heads in agreement with me, ladies and gentlemen ( I don’t judge), you’re only human.

Yet, at the Jean//phillip S/S ’12 show in Copenhagen last month, I found myself getting excited for the hoodie with the zipper detail, the high waisted shorts, the lose cardigan, and the jacket with the leather panels that had my name all over it.  Ok, it might of been for my own selfish reasons that I paid so much attention to the collection that was composed of mostly black garments, but Jean//phillip succeeded in keeping me focused on the clothes and not the men.

His spring/summer fashion show was the first time I got a chance to see Jean/phillip’s pieces and I was all smiles at the conclusion of it.  A menswear designer had me wanting garments meant for the guys, on my own body, ohh he did good!  I reached out to the designer who models his clothes better than the models themselves, for an interview.

 

Vital Stats:

Name: Jean Phillip
Stomping Ground: Kongens Nytorv, Copenhagen
Age: Old enough to love James Dean, too young for Schlager Hits.
Most beloved possession: My IPod
Fashion idol: Casey Spooner
Favorite quote is: “Finish what you started.”
Last song listened to was….Halo – Alva Noto & Ryuichi Sakamoto
When and how did fashion come into your life?
It´s always been there but didn’t really interest me until later in my life.  I wanted to be an animator, and got in to one of the best schools in the world, but found out, quite quickly, that it wasn’t me.  From that day a fashion tale blossomed, as I had always known that it was gonna be one of the two.
What was the first piece created for your label, Jean Phillip?
A black sequins hoodie handmade.
What designers do you admire that are past, present and/or legendary?
It would be easy to say McQueen as he is now all of the above, and it pains me to say that, but the man was and will forever be a genius and fountain of inspiration.  Of the present Hussein Chalayan is no exception a master to me, you go boy!
Where do you get your inspiration from?
Its very different from season what the inspiration takes form through.  This season, it was inspiration through pictures of the Japanese Samurai history, pictures and films were the references.
Jean//phillip looks from previous collections
Jean Phillip the label has been around for how many years now?
Four years
Were there any mistakes made in the beginning that has made you stronger and wiser about what you do with your business now?  Do you mind sharing one that will hopefully help others avoid the same mistakes?
Of course you make mistakes that make you stronger, and they have to be there in order to make you move on, All I can say is don’t swallow more than you can chew, one step at a time.
I could see myself wearing several of your garments, even though the collections are for men. Some of my friends have also wanted to covet some of your pieces.  Any plans on creating a women’s wear collection or making unisex pieces?
The pieces are for both men and woman to buy, as I see it you can wear whatever you want as long as you feel great in it.  This is you you can get all the garments down to a size XS.
If you had the opportunity to collaborate with a designer or a brand, who would it be and why?
Rick Owens – His vision and way of seeing garments, is so unique, but most importantly he a is strong, kind, and thoughtful person.
If you weren’t working in fashion, what else would you be doing?
If that ever where to happen, ask me then. (wink)
What words of fashion wisdom would you like to share with us?
Never go compromise!

 

 

Another 1 of my favorites. Great jacket to wear all year around.

 

In hoodie love with this piece from Jean//Phillip S/S collection.

You can Pre-Order Jean//philip’s Spring/Summer Collection on CoutureSociety.com


Photos via Jeanphillip.dk , Andy Magazine and CopenhagenFashionWeek.com



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Talk Tuesday: How The Hell is James Goldstein?

“Who the heck is that man wearing the leather jacket with all the safety pins?” My friend and I kept asking that question every-time we saw him walking around the shows we attended during Fashion Week in Copenhagen.  What was he doing at the late night parties getting his swagger on, attending day-time gatherings walking around not talking to a soul, but getting all the attention, then visiting the cupcake shop, Agnes all while rocking the now infamous Balmain jacket?

From the sightings made at almost every event those few days, the slightly older gentleman wore only tight pants and t-shirts, with an elaborate hat and Balmain’s safety pins red jacket.  I had to find out who was this pimp daddy, stealing all the glory from the young ones?

James Goldstein is his name and basketball is his game. I found an interview by Derek Blasberg for Interview Magazine.

“BLASBERG: Were you always a flamboyant dresser?
GOLDSTEIN: Yes. I can remember when I was about 13, pink became a fashionable color, and everyone was wearing pink shirts. I took it a step further and got a pink suit. I was always trying to be ahead of everyone else in fashion, and as a teenager I was very much into the way I dressed. In my early twenties, I went to Paris for the first time, and that really had a strong impact on my fashion awareness. I stepped it up considerably from that point on, and I still feel like I’m advancing more and more in my look.
BLASBERG: Where do you shop now?
GOLDSTEIN: I do most of my shopping in Paris and Milan. Everything I buy is from European designers.
BLASBERG: Who are some of your favorites? I see that you’re in Galliano today.
GOLDSTEIN: Yes. I love John Galliano. I buy Gucci, Dior, Roberto Cavalli. From time to time I buy Dolce & Gabbana.
BLASBERG: Have you met some of these designers?
GOLDSTEIN: I know all the designers I wear. For many years, I was wearing mostly Jean Paul Gaultier, and I’m friends with him. Before that, I was wearing Claude Montana extensively. When Roberto Cavalli first started designing men’s clothes—which was his peak, as far as I’m concerned—I was buying almost the entire Cavalli line every season. I was very well known for wearing Cavalli—to the extent that some of the other designers wouldn’t let me come to their shows.”

There is much more to this interview that gives us insight on how James Goldstein got into the spotlight and why basketball, fashion and archtiecture are all listed on his business cards.

James Goldstein in Purple Fashion Magazine

The entire interview HERE

Photo from streetstylebystela.blogspot.comInterview Magazine
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